The fabrics can be used very efficiently, because you don’t have to worry about the grainlines or stretch directions at all.
However, it is good to cut mirror images of the foam pieces symmetrically. Otherwise you can lay them in any direction.
The Foam Cup
Prepare the Foam Lining
Before you sew the lining pieces together, cut a length of support tape to reinforce and support the armhole and strap of the bra. (A 1.5cm (1/2”) wide satin ribbon makes a good support tape.) Zigzag the inner edge of the support tape along the edge of the armhole and down the length of the strap. Do not stitch the outer edge. (The outer edge will be finished later on with fold over elastic.)
Zigzag stitch of the bra cup lining
Place the edges of the parts one and two of the lining accurately against each other. Sew on top of the parts so that the zigzag stitch extends to both sides equally. Feed the pieces evenly and use alignment marks as an aid. Remember to stitch back and forth in the beginning and end. Combine the previous with the part 3, starting from the junction of the side part and the strap (was marked in the previous step)
Set the surfaces of both the bra band and the bottom edge elastic against each other. Sew the first zigzag quite near the inner edge of the elastic (1-2mm). Later, when the elastic will be turned to the back, this small edge makes a beautiful, carefully finished look. You do not need to stretch the elastic when sewing. See more specific instruction images from the. Make the upper edges of the bra band ready as described above (both zigzags at this stage).
Inner fabric piece under the bridge
Set the stabilizer (a light, non-stretch piece of fabric) under the bridge. Attach this fabric to the bridge by stitching a few millimetres (1/16”) away from the edge. Pin the lower edge of the stabilizer in place until it will be fastened over next steps.
The Cup cover
Sew the seams of the cup from the distance of the presser foot from the edge. The length of the stitch is about 3mm.
Finishing the seam with zigzag
Open up the seam allowances of the previous stitch and sew a narrow zigzag on top of the seam. Make sure that the seam allowance stays open when sewing.
Trimming the seam allowances
Trim the seam allowances (There is no need to trim e.g. very thin lace).
Note! If the cup is formed of three or more pieces, perform the previously mentioned stages to each seam individually. You will find the sewing order from the information page delivered with the pattern (numbers outside the miniatyre pattern).
Attach the cup cover to the lining
Place the finished cup cover on top of the lining by pinning them first approximately in the centre where the seam is. Stretch the cover gently in the direction of the seam(s) and pin it in place from both ends. When the seam(s) is nicely in place, you can continue placing the cover by gently stretching, evenly in every direction. Pin from the edges. The fabric going over the edges will be cut away later. Strecht the fabric gently over the strap part as well. The strap area is so narrow that the fabric doesn’t fall over the edges of the lining much.
The stretch and the bias grain of fabric affect the amount of fall over at different parts of the cup.
Working from the foam lining side of the cup, zigzag the outer edge of the foam lining to minimize bulk. The stitch should be long and not too wide (4.5mm width, 3.0mm length). Zigzagging flattens the foam edges and makes the cup easier to handle in the next steps. Carefully trim away the extra cup cover fabric around the edges.
Finish the outer edges of the strap and the cup with the fold over elastic
Attaching the cup to the bra band
Attach the cups to the band using a straight stitch.
My way of doing this
The right-side cup (left breast): I start sewing from the side of the cup in the centre-front. I sew the parts together without using pins.
The left-side cup (right breast): I sew from the side of the band starting from the centre-front all the way to the lower edge of the inner fabric piece. Then, I turn the work over and sew the rest from the side of the cup from the armpit towards the centre.
This is a good method to settle the cups symmetrically.
Attaching Underwire Casing
Place the underwire casing as in image and sew it so that stitch becomes over the seam joining cup and the band.
A. Place the underwire casing against the foam cup as shown in the image. The casing should be on top of the foam cup and band seam allowances. The inner edge of the casing should face toward the foam cup.
B. Line up the stitching on the casing with the stitching used to attach the cups to the band and sew in place, using the stitching on the casing as your guide.
C. Fold and pin the bottom band elastic in place. Fold the casing over the seam allowances, toward the bottom of the band and elastic, and edgestitch in place along the outer edge of the casing.
D. Turn the elastic over and zigzag in place. Depending on the width of the elastic used the zigzag should be 3.5-5 mm wide and 1.5-2.5 mm long.
Finish the whole upper edge of the bras (decollete) with the fold-over elastic
Make The Adjustment Part of The Straps
Attach a slide to the adjustment part and a ring to the end of the fabric strap. Thread the adjustment part through the ring and through the slide. Finish the bra band centre back with it like in the picture.
Attach The Closure
Attach the hook part of the bra closure in two steps. At first zigzag the first edge of it at the upper side of the bra. Then, turn the bra around and fold the second edge to the right position and attach it with straight stitch. The needle of sewing machine as right as possible.
Make The Boning Tunnels
Sew a boning tunnel on the sides of the bra band under the armpit. The tunnel can be made of bias band or equivalent tape. The underwire casing should be fine too, if you have the right size bones to put in there. Close the edges of the tunnel with zigzag then it’s more durable when stretching. Bones should be 1 – 1,5cm shorter than the tunnel because the tunnel will get shorter when you put the bras on.
I recommend to round off the ends of the bones so they don’t push through the tunnel.
Place The Underwires
Close the underwire tunnels with narrow zigzag