The fabrics can be used very efficiently, because you don’t have to worry about the grainlines or stretch directions at all.
However, it is good to cut mirror images of the foam pieces symmetrically. Otherwise you can lay them in any direction.
Lay out bra patterns on the fabric
At first attach the strap pattern (4) to the side part pattern of the cup lining (3). The same pattern will be used with the cup cover side part (7) as well.
Cut the cup parts, the lining and the bra band. Mark the starting point of the strap on the lining.
The Foam Lining of The Bra Cup
Prepare the Lining
Before you sew the lining pieces together, cut a length of support tape to reinforce and support the armhole and strap of the bra. (A 1.5cm (1/2”) wide satin ribbon makes a good support tape.) Zigzag the inner edge of the support tape along the edge of the armhole and down the length of the strap. Do not stitch the outer edge. (The outer edge will be finished later on with fold over elastic.)
Zigzag stitch of the bra cup lining
Place the edges of the parts one and two of the lining accurately against each other. Sew on top of the parts so that the zigzag stitch extends to both sides equally. Feed the pieces evenly and use alignment marks as an aid. Remember to stitch back and forth in the beginning and end. Combine the previous with the part 3, starting from the junction of the side part and the strap (was marked in the previous step)
Set the surfaces of both the bra band and the bottom edge elastic against each other. Sew the first zigzag quite near the inner edge of the elastic (1-2mm). Later, when the elastic will be turned to the back, this small edge makes a beautiful, carefully finished look. You do not need to stretch the elastic when sewing. See more specific instruction images from the. Make the upper edges of the bra band ready as described above (both zigzags at this stage).
Inner fabric piece under the bridge
Sew an inner fabric piece to the bridge a few millimetres away from the edges. Be sure to check that the both edges are placed symmetrically. Cut away the excess part of it.
Combining the cup parts
Sew the seams of the cup from the distance of the presser foot from the edge. The length of the stitch is about 3mm.
Finishing the seam with zigzag
Open up the seam allowances of the previous stitch and sew a narrow zigzag on top of the seam. Make sure that the seam allowance stays open when sewing.
Trimming the seam allowances
Trim the seam allowances (There is no need to trim e.g. very thin lace).
Note! If the cup is formed of three or more pieces, perform the previously mentioned stages to each seam individually. You will find the sewing order from the information page delivered with the pattern (numbers outside the miniatyre pattern).
Shaping the cup
Attach the cup cover and the lining
Place the finished cup cover on top of the lining by pinning them first approximately in the centre where the seam is. Stretch the cover gently in the direction of the seam(s) and pin it in place from both ends. When the seam(s) is nicely in place, you can continue placing the cover by gently stretching, evenly in every direction. Pin from the edges. The fabric going over the edges will be cut away later. Strecht the fabric gently over the strap part as well. The strap area is so narrow that the fabric doesn’t fall over the edges of the lining much.
Pin the both cups ready, so you can state that the cover is stretched approximately in the same way in both cups. The stretch and the bias grain of fabric affect the amount of fall over at different parts of the cup.
Sew a stitch on the edge of the lining a few millimetres away from the outer edge. Cut off excessive material carefully.
Finish the outer edges of the strap and the cup with the fold over elastic
Attaching a finished cup to the bra band
Pin the cup and the curve of the band together. Note that the curve of the band is a bit shorter than the curve of the cup. This way the band is beautifully placed around the cup. The band is preferably stretched only on the side of the armpit to match the measures of the cup, so the tightness of the parts is the same in the centre-front. Compare the seams of the cup in the centre-front and the lower edge of the inner fabric piece of the band, so both cups will be placed symmetrically. Sew the parts together from the distance of the presser foot from the side of the cup.
When you become more skilled in sewing, you can leave out the pins and sew the cup directly to the band.
My way of doing this
The right-side cup (left breast): I start sewing from the side of the cup in the centre-front. I sew the parts together without using pins.
The left-side cup (right breast): I sew from the side of the band starting from the centre-front all the way to the lower edge of the inner fabric piece. Then, I turn the work over and sew the rest from the side of the cup from the armpit towards the centre.
This is a little complicated but a fast way, since normally corrections do not need to be made and the cups are placed symmetrically.
Attaching the underwire channel tape
Sew the underwire channel tape on top of the the seam that combines the cup and the band, to the side of the lining. Place it in such a way that the inner stitch in the underwire channel tape, the stitch that combines the cup and the band, and the new stitch are placed on top of each other.
Stitching the underwire channel tape
If you want two stitches to be visible, this is what you do: Stitch about 1mm away from the seam that combines the cup and the band on the top side. If all has so far gone well, the stitching should be exactly in the right place when viewed from the back side.
Second stitch over the underwire channel
The idea is that the bottom elastic of the band stays a little under the underwire casing at the bottom of cup when finished.
Do either this: Turn (and pin) the bottom elastic to the right position and keep it in place while making the second stitch about 6mm away from the previous. After that, you can finish the bottom edge elastic with zigzag.
Or That: Turn (and pin) the bottom elastic to the right position and keep it in place while sewing the second zigzag over the bottom edge elastic ready. Then, stitch about 6mm away from the first stitch over the underwire channel.
Check from the backside that the stitches approximately follow the stitches of the underwire channel tape.
Finish the whole upper edge of the bras (decollete) with the fold-over elastic
Make The Adjustment Part of The Straps
Attach a slide to the adjustment part and a ring to the end of the fabric strap. Thread the adjustment part through the ring and through the slide. Finish the bra band centre back with it like in the picture.
Attach The Closure
Attach the hook part of the bra closure in two steps. At first zigzag the first edge of it at the upper side of the bra. Then, turn the bra around and fold the second edge to the right position and attach it with straight stitch. The needle of sewing machine as right as possible.
Make The Boning Tunnels
Sew a boning tunnel on the sides of the bra band under the armpit. The tunnel can be made of bias band or equivalent tape. The underwire casing should be fine too, if you have the right size bones to put in there. Close the edges of the tunnel with zigzag then it’s more durable when stretching. Bones should be 1 – 1,5cm shorter than the tunnel because the tunnel will get shorter when you put the bras on.
I recommend to round off the ends of the bones so they don’t push through the tunnel.
Place The Underwires
Close the underwire tunnels with narrow zigzag