It covers sizes 65A-C and 70AA-B. It is downloadable and prints on both A4 and letter-sized sheet of paper.
Petite Bra #DL05
The Petite Bra #DL05 has a two-part cup and underwires. There is a suitable place for a side boning at the point where the front and wing meet, even though you do not necessarily need further support in this model.
You can easily make the straps removable if you prefer to wear the bra strapless or straps crossed in back. If so you need the hooks at the ends of the strap and the folded strap elastic pieces on the upper edge of the cup and back. The back curve of the band has to be straightened as well. There is an alternate line on the wing pattern for that purpose.
The Miracle of Easy Sewing
At first glance Petite Bra #DL05 seems to have a full band, right? In a way it has, even though it has only a wing pattern. At front the band and the cup form a coherent whole making sewing process super easy. You don’t need to reconcile two differently curved pieces.
View the detailed
Let’s make some playfull, fun and super easy piece of lingerie while waiting for the new bustier and boyshorts patterns and how to videos. It’s so relaxing to sew something not so demanding for a while. In these exemples we have two different kind of stockings; one made of the sheer 4-way stretchy mesh and another made of jersey with elastane. Elastane is important part of the mix, it makes the fabric recover from stretch.
If you need to alter the size it’s very easy along the center front line and horizontal lines. To increase the size add more space between the pattern pieces and decrease it by overlapping the pieces.
The seam allowances in the pattern are 6mm (1/4″). It’s recommended to sew the seams with a serger. The zigzag stitch is perfect for the upper edge elastic attachment. The fabric must be 4-way stretch and the most stretch is better be crosswise. You can use many different kind of stretchy fabrics for this stocking, from woolen knit to sheer mesh, and everything in between as long as fabric has elasticity enough.
This stocking is very comfortable to wear if you put it on right. See the first picture. The back seam reaches the floor, but you don’t stand over the heel seam.
If seams are set correctly, you don’t even feel them. Very comfortable. Enjoy!
The Idea for the Makeover Came From…
And, the Result Was…
The Georgette Fabric
Georgette fabric is made of synthetic or natural yarns. This one is polyester and therefore you don’t need to pre shrink it. By the way, have I ever mentioned that you should always pre shrink non stretch natural fibers used by lingerie making? Otherwise, your efforts will be wasted if a shrinking process occurs during the first wash.
Ny Fashion Center’s Fabric Glossary, a great source for all kinds of fabric information, describes georgette fabric as follows: “A woven fabric created from highly twisted yarns creating a pebbly texture. It is thin and semi-sheer and is characterized by its crispness and exceptional strength”.
Preparing the Cup Cover
Georgette fabric is easily fraying and therefore it is wise to minimize the amount/length of seams if possible. I lapped the upper parts of center and middle pattern pieces in order to get a unified upper edge.
At the lower edge of this block is left only a dart then. It’s important to sew the end point of the dart round enough, so any lumps doesn’t appear around it. This block was cut on the bias grain and the side panel of the cup on the straight grain. (The cradle area on the straight grain).
Because of fraying I didn’t trim the seam allowances at all, just flattened the seams by ironing. Didn’t top stitch the seams either. I like the look more that way. I’m not sure, however, if it was a good choice in terms of washing. We’ll see that later…
The next time I’m going to use this kind of fabric I’ll leave wider seam allowances around the cup. It would be much easier to handle it. Because of frying, again.
Decorating the Briefs
It’s difficult to use a non stretch fabric as a brief material because garment must be so highly elastic. In this case, I embedded a few roses on a small area at front. The piece is bias cut giving the most possible stretch when putting the briefs on. It’s easy to understand that horizontal stretch is most important.
I also decorated front piece with the narrow vertical stripes. Normally I would have used a pre folded fabric trim inserted into a seam. But it’s impossible to handle this “lively” fabric that way, so I zigzagged a bias cut trim at place (right in pic) then folded and ironed it (left in pic). When the seams were finished by an overlocker (serger) a small amount of it remained visible.
I tried to help my old Select 1530 sewing machine to perform the waist elastic sewing by adjusting the stitch length longer. This machine has served me in a wonderful way especially in lingerie making, but now it has become old and sluggish. Adjusting the stitch length was a big mistake. A loud ripping noise was heard while putting the brief on. Thread was broken at several points and I needed to unpick all the remaining stitches. I hate unpicking stitches, especially zigzag stitches. Then, I decreased the stitch length again to retain more elasticity and started over.
So a new sewing machine desperately needed here! Do you have any suggestions, especially for lingerie making? Which machine you’d suggest? Please feel free to boost your favorite.
Patterns used: and
The week has passed since this post, so it’s time to show the bra < brief set after washed in a washing machine. Go to and find out!
Many thanks to the “Fitting-Sisters” who fitted and commented the trial versions of #DL02. Christel in Germany, Marianne and Helena in Sweden, Sointu and Edith in Finland. Special thanks to Marianne (her blog ) who gave her contribution in a form of both sewing and fitting the trial versions. Many, many versions.
It was larger size pattern’s turn to be released this time (talking about cup size). Sizes start from 75G and end to 100F. New in this pattern is a separate PDF file including general information and a construction guide. In this file all important titles act as online links. Open the guide in Adobe Reader and follow the links to the detailed sewing instructions on Make Bra’s site while sewing. That is what I call modern sewing!
are worth visiting even if you are not going to make this particular model. There are many finesses which you can apply to your own projects.
In a model on this page I have made an extra decoration on vertical seams and straps with a narrow elastic trim. That means you don’t need so much fold over elastic in order to finish the edges. The trim is sewed in two steps in place. First, over the seams of the cup (leave 1-2 cm unsewn on upper edge!). Second, after attaching two pieces of FOE, on the edges of the straps.
By the way, for you who are not so familiar with attaching the fold over elastic, there is a handy tip for making it in the instructions !
Why Built-in Cups?
We had three main reasons why. First, the bodice stays in a right place and the bra doesn’t peep out at any point. Second, with the sewn-in cups we got the bodice form we wanted. And last, the draped design was easy to implement onto the cups.
Cups + Lining = Light Corset
The cups are attached to the lining, the combination which forms a light corset under the bodice.
In this picture you can see how the boning tunnels are placed in order to get an even support. Note also the horizontal elastic which starts under the lower part of the cup and ends to the center back.
To Be Sure the Dress Stays in Place
Vilma’s layered skirt is floor length. Although the uppermost tulle layer is light, the whole skirt is quite heavy. The force of gravity pulls it down while the strapless dress cannot resist it effectively. So, we ensured the dress stays where it should with an elastic band around the waist. Elastic must be quite tough. The bra closure with three adjustments possibilities at the ends gives some ease if needed.
The magic waistband prevents your dress from slipping down and enables you to celebrate with confidence!
The foam lined bra cup is there for support and shape. Not to mention good look and feel!
Both facings are different. The fuzzy side is normally used against the skin. The other side is covered with charmeuse, which makes it a little bit slippy. Because of the slippery, it’s a great base for the cup cover fabrics.
One of the most common misunderstandings is that foam lining acts like a padding. It doesn’t. It doesn’t increase the breast volume. In newly made bra it may seem slightly puffed, but after wearing it for a while, excessive puffiness fades away.
You can still use it as a padding. In that case overlap foam lining pieces in place where extra padding is needed. Stitch the layers together.
Join the lining cup parts together with a zigzag or 3-step zigzag. Use straight stitch in all the other cup lining seams and use longer stitch than you normally would do. This is empirical knowledge, it just runs smoother that way. Zigzag seams can be finished with a narrow tape, but in my opinion it isn’t necessary. The lighter the seams are, the smoother the shape will be.
After joining the parts together, the block may seem a little angular. Don’t worry because this effect disappears after few hours of wearing a bra. The same miracle happens with washed bra, the shape returns after wearing it. I really love that feature.
If the angularity really bothers you at this stage, you can gently steam iron over the seams through a cotton cloth. Be careful not to flatten the seams! And, not to burn your fingers!
The foam-lined cup is formed out of one-two-three-or-more pieces. Roughly spoken, it’s task is to move your breast tissue in the desired direction depending on the model of the cup. To the center, up forward, down.
You are free to make your own improvements and changes to it. It’s easy. Use the existing seams or make the new ones. Make different adjustments and see the effects. Imagine that it’s a kind of sculpture.
The foam lining doesn’t demand any special washing treatments. The same detergent and temperature can be used as you normally use when washing your underwear.
I always wash my bras in a washing machine. That being whispered, I recommend that you do your laundry in a way that seems the best. I use washing machine because of the bra science: I want to test the materials. Okey, I’m too lazy to wash them by hand. But, please don’t blame me for advising you to wash your lingerie in a washing machine. The fact is that the materials of your underwear tell the rules.
As mentioned before, foam lining is a master of retaining and returning its shape. And, it’s not the first one to peg out, neither in use nor wash.
The dotted and striped fabrics are . Nanso produces high quality tricot fabrics for their own use, but sometimes you can find their left-overs at local fabric stores. This, let’s say T-shirt tricot, is my favorite as a cup cover material because it’s thin and stretchy just in a right way. You are free to lay out pieces the way you prefer, no need to take any grain-lines into consideration. It’s a pleasure to work with it.
Lycra was used for the bra band wings and striped tricot for the cradle.
Tip! When you are targeting dots or other designs together on fabric in order to cut out two symmetrical parts, use a window for your help. Fold the fabric and put it against the window. Designs can be seen clearly when the light comes through (by day, of course and with very dark fabrics, of course not :))
To figure out how to combine these three fabrics I made some sketches. In this drawing you can see the effects of different layouts. It seems like the focus of the bra would be different in every alternatives. Despite these drawings and after few spoiled cuttings I ended up to the conclusion in the picture below.
The Bra and the Panties
A custom made bra wouldn’t be perfect without matching panties. These Tap pants are great under your clothing because they land so low underneath the cheeks that the panty lines stay invisible. In my opinion, they are extremely feminine too.
These small pieces of lingerie blend the early 1900s and the present in a wonderful way. I think they look gorgeous on modern women like my client! I hope she’ll be satisfied.
Straps Towards the Center
The straps can be too far from each other in a pattern relative to your shoulder-shape or you’re not filling out the top of your cup. Both cases can cause your straps to slide down your shoulders. Bringing them little nearer each other may help.
Cut the strap off the cup and pin it a little bit nearer the center. That could cause another problem though. The A-area (marked in picture) could become too loose. If so, pin in a dart to correct a gaping area.
In case the upper edge of your cup sits too tight on you, forming another pair of breasts over the cups, moving the straps a little farther away from each other could help.
Be careful not to set them too wide, lest they should begin to fall off. Unlike the previous example, the B-area (marked in picture) may start gaping. To correct that pin out the excess fabric along the vertical seam.
Tips for Fitting a Trial Bra
If you fit the trial bra on your own, adjusting the length of the straps may be difficult. I suggest that you pin the straps on the back of the bra band first and then adjust the length on the front as shown in the picture.
As you may have noticed the trial bra band has no elastics and therefore doesn’t tighten the edges like it should. That should be taken into consideration especially when judging the fit of the cup. After you have tighten the straps, you should gently pull the underarm hem of the band in order to receive a real shape of the cup. The arrow shows where and in which direction.
About the patterns
Many of you have requested for the printing option of patterns in our web shop, meaning that after paying you’d get the email telling from where to print the pattern. It really is a sensible way to deliver and receive patterns. Fast and cheap without any delivery costs. Now your call is answered…
In the picture on the right there is a new model so far called #XXXX. It was at first designed for Make Bras one-year birthday which passed a pair of weeks ago and here are we now…the birthday cake candle is still not extinguished! This #XXXX will be the first printable pattern in Make Bra web shop, available on Monday, October 15th.
#XXXX story will be continued later with the lower part pattern to which you can then attach the bra pattern purchased. And, what will it be then? It will be a basque or light corset, whatever you’d like to call it.
Smaller sizes of pattern #4800 have also been highly desired. It was originally designed only for larger sizes, but due to high demand for smaller ones it has been renewed to include them too. At the same time, larger size patterns have been updated to be in line with the others. Both the new and updated patterns are available in Make Bra web shop on Tuesday, October 9th. (promised to some of you on Monday, but an obstacle occurred, sorry about that)
On Tuesday I’ll post more about the adjustments made to the pattern. If you own pattern #4800, you can check if those alterations would benefit you. In case you would like to try them out, please ask the updated version by email! Only the updated parts of the pattern will be sent. Tell where you purchased the pattern and in what size you would like to have the update.
Idea of the Month
Grace emailed me an idea that I think deserves to be shared.
She wrote: “I have a problem with most bras, in that they fit well when I first put them on, but if I move around much, things tend to settle in a way that leaves me sticking out the top of the bra. Four boobs, not good. A larger cup size simply fails to support, but I’ve found that if I cut the sticky bit off the top of a hold-up stocking and sew that along the top edge of each cup, they stay put all day, only two boobs, even after bending down to tie my shoes. Well worth doing for ladies like me with, er, mobile breasts.”
Thanks Grace for a great idea, I think that the elastic silicone tape makes the trick, it really is worth trying! This is recycling at its best! Hold-ups turn to stay-downs. :)
We all have a little different figure even if we may have the same bra size. That’s why it’s wise to make a trial version of bras first. By fitting it, you will see what pattern adjustments might be needed. This post shows how to make a trial version of bras easily, fast and at an affordable price. There is no need to attach any elastics or other niceties at this stage (except in this particular model #4800, you could see and feel how “strong weapon”is by attaching it even if only to another cup)
Use a foam lining or some other non-stretch fabric as a cup material.
Bra band can be made of a cotton fabric or similar.
Cut the bra band wings much longer than marked on the pattern at centre back.
Use a bias binding as an underwire casing material.
Pin the strap elastics in place and tie bra band wings as a bow. Don’t tie too tight as this will ruin the shape of cups.
And voilà, your trial version is ready!
Tip for fitting a trial version: lift the straps a little by hand because the bra band made like this does not provide any support.
Cut the bra band out of a fabric as two separate pieces (not on a fold). If you make a strapless bra like this one, straighten the upper edge of the band. Make the two halves of a bra ready as advised in
Before threading the underwires in, attach a hook&eye tape on place and push a boning in both of them. Close the ends of the tape sewing by hand.
Although the bra has a front-closure it still has fastening on back as well. And, why so? It’s because of the adjustment and convenience in use.
So why have a front-closure at all? Because it’s a pretty detail, it gives great support especially to a strapless bra and you can use it if you prefer!